We took bus number 400 up from our apartment near the beach, got off at Square Bourdet and walked up the passage recommended by the Tourist Office. The afternoon heat was pleasant in early May. I recognized the house immediately when we entered the drive. The ancient olive trees with the silver-grey leaves still stand guard and the solid old house sits atop the path up from the public street. The long grass in spaces between the trees is dotted with spring flowers. We are drawn up the pathway to the big house.
The ground floor door is open and we go in. There we find some sculptures, some by Renoir, some by his fellow sculptors. The ones of Aline intrigue me most. I see her face in paintings upstairs in the main part of the house where we go next. There are only about ten works by the master, the rest are by his sons or other artists. You see the brush strokes and pencil outlines and how fast he must have worked. The setting of many pieces is obviously the grounds outside. From the balcony you can see the Grimaldi Castle.
Outside again, we walk about the grounds, pausing to examine the posted reproductions of scenes painted from specific locations. It’s a good touch by the curators to give us this insight. Renoir’s studio has his easel and painting chair, clearly from his elder years. He was creative to the end, having assistants place his brushes into his crippled hands. We leave fulfilled.
You can see the complete collection of works in the Renoir Museum at the link below: